Dealing with mud the Tanzanian way!
On reflection, the Western route from Zambia in the rainy season, might not have been the best choice, but once in Katavi National Park, we were committed to the plan!
The road through the Park was easy enough and the tarmac around Mpanda as good as any in Europe. It’s after Mpanda that things start to go downhill! We met a family travelling in the opposite direction who warned us that a bus had got stuck further along and we wouldn’t be able to pass. A number of trucks were parked in a little village 3 km from the problem bus, waiting for the road to clear.
Sure enough we saw the line of trucks and joined the queue. Everyone was in fairly good spirits. It was a Saturday night, the village had a bar with music, a pool table and grilled chicken available. The bus passengers (in slightly less of a convivial mood) arrived for food and then had to walk back to wait with the bus. At least it wasn’t raining. Then just before midnight, with much fanfare (horn beeping), the newly freed bus with it’s contingent of weary-looking passengers, passed through the village, to continue on its bumpy nocturnal journey to Mpanda.
The next morning, refreshed and raring to go, we joined our trucking friends and left the village. This is how I saw events unfold from Big Bertha’s cab, although the video explains it much better:
07.30 We set off
07.40 We stop at the top of the slope, behind the other trucks. There is a small truck stuck ahead across the road. Buses and smaller vehicles overtake us to squeeze pass the stuck truck. Three big trucks are waiting to come up the slope, but the plan is that once the road is free, the “down-slope” trucks will move first.
08.50 The small truck is free, but has been followed up the slope by a big blue truck with a trailer. No one knows why. The big blue truck is now stuck.
09.10 The small truck trundles past, precariously overloaded with bananas.
09.20 – 09.50 There is various manoeuvring of big “up-slope” trucks and trailers.
10.00 Three “down-slope” trucks lose interest and carry on their way.
10.10 The three “up-slope” trucks pass us, followed by a small saloon car, which has somehow got involved in the queue.
10.15 All of the remaining “down-slope” trucks (including Bertha) move on and successfully pass the mushed up bit of road where everything got stuck.
10.35 All the trucks stop again, but this time it’s because of a steep hill with a bendy, narrow track. Various co-drivers get out and position themselves at the bends, so that they can help the drivers up.
11.10 We are up the hill!
11.15 We say “good bye” to our trucker friends, reassured by the fact that they were behind us, if we did get into trouble further along.
Tanzanians approach getting stuck in the rainy season, whether in a bus or some other vehicle, as a matter of course. You will be delayed, but you will be on your way eventually!
Adventure by the truckload! Happy New Year to you both!
Happy New Year to you all too!xx
What a difference since we passed that way in October 2017 (when it was dry). I expect you will be turning into Kigoma next. Then up to Kibondo, where we spent the night. Roadworks were ongoing after that so should be done by now as far as the tar and the left turn (west) to Rusomo. This was very badly potholed and wrecked our front axle. Hope it is OK now.
After Rusomo and the very modern Joint border facility. (Friendly Rwandans, not so friendly Ugandans) you will be on some of the best tar in Africa.
Enjoy your trip and thanks for sharing.
Yes, I think in the dry season, we would have been treated to a bit more wildlife through Katavi as well. As the song (almost) goes “the grass is as high as an elephant’s eye”! 🙂
We’re in Kigoma at the moment. Nice place. We have heard that the road to Rusumo is awful. Think there might be an alternative to cut some of the potholes out by following the Burundi border for a bit, but we’re still considering our options.
Dear David and Francine, this is your friend from Tpe， long time no see， thank you so much for contact with me， Happy new year for both of you， wish in the near future sometime you have opportunity to visit Taiwan。
Hey Evan. Happy New Year! Of course we remember you! I remember that great day when you and your friends taught us how to make dumplings! 🙂 How are things in Taipei? Hope you’re keeping well.xx
Greetings from farm Arbeid, Namibia.
We had plentiful rain and the big dam overflowed.
Johan & Berdine de Klerk
Happy New Year from both of us to you and your family. 🙂
That’s great that you have had so much rain. It’s hard to imagine the dam overflowing! Good news for the farmers in Namibia. 🙂
Great video seeing what problems you have had, sitting back in a nice warm comfortable house when it’s -7 degrees C outside. Glad that it’s not me driving through all that mud! You obviously have the right approach and enjoying the experience. Hope all goes well for you both in Tanzania.
Don and I are well, keeping busy but it harder during the winter months and with the third lock down in place we are missing seeing friends and family.
Best Wishes for 2021. Love Don and Betty.
Thanks Betty. Happy New Year to you both too. Hope you are out of lockdown soon and able to see your family. xx
What an experience! But you definitely have what it takes.
Happy 2021 and enjoy the adventure!
Happy New Year! I thought of you and the “12 grapes” at New Year again. I love Madrid! xx
Interesting tales Dave and Francine. I bottled out of a 200m muddy stretch in northern Thailand. Somehow a pick up laden to the sky with cabbages wiggled its way through. It was down a hill to a concrete river bridge then the 200m of mud. I could see a quarry after that but thought they might pull the front off my elderly Toyota Corolla so i retraced about 60 miles to a junction
I have been sailing round Ireland but am in hospital with a badly damaged knee, done not at sea but ashore, I will be repatriated, but what of Greenheart, who is my Big Bertha
Get well soon Peter!