Parque Nacional Perito Moreno

From El Chaltén, we headed north on the famous Argentine Ruta 40, leaving the tourists behind us – this is now overlanding territory!  Our next stop, after topping up our diesel, water and shopping in Gobernador Gregores, was the Parque Nacional Perito Moreno.  We were debating whether to visit this park as it involved a 180km return trip down a gravel road.  It really is remote (180km to the nearest town), and is nothing like the parks we had just come from.  It was pretty much empty apart from the adventurous few.

We were very pleased we made the effort – the hiking was glorious and the colours of the lake here are something else.  I hope my pictures do it justice.

 HikeDistanceHeight GainTiming
Day 1Cerro Leon2km350m15:00 – 17:00 (2 hours)
Day 2Valle Del Rio Lacteo24km368m09:00 – 17:00 (8 hours)
Day 3Lago Volcán2km0m09:00 – 10:00 (1 hour)
Day 4Peninsula Belgrano20km194m11:00 – 17:00 (6 hours)
 TOTALS49km912m17 hours

Our first hike was short, but all up, to the Mirador Cerro Leon from where we would be able to view the lake. We met a ranger on his way down and he advised us not to go all the way to the summit due to severe wind gusts.  We took his advice, but still enjoyed the view from where we stopped.

The next day we hiked 24km on a fairly level path up the valley Rio Lacteo and had lunch at a refugio.  These huts are so appealing and are free to use (reservation required).  They come with several bunks and a wood burning stove to keep warm and heat your food.  This particular hut was named after Doug Tompkins, the American entrepreneur, who, along with his wife, bought up vast tracts of Argentinean and Chilean land (2 million acres) from private land owners and donated it back to the Governments to form national parks.  We later visited his grave in Chile.

The following morning we did a very short hike to Lago Volcán, but the wind was so ferocious we retreated to the truck for remainder of the day.

Our final hike in this park was a circular walk on the Belgrano Peninsula. The lake that surrounds the peninsula is one body of water, but has two colours: grey from the glacier melt and azure from snow melt. Walking around the peninsular gave us spectacular views of the changing colours.

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