From El Chaltén, we headed north on the famous Argentine Ruta 40, leaving the tourists behind us – this is now overlanding territory! Our next stop, after topping up our diesel, water and shopping in Gobernador Gregores, was the Parque Nacional Perito Moreno. We were debating whether to visit this park as it involved a 180km return trip down a gravel road. It really is remote (180km to the nearest town), and is nothing like the parks we had just come from. It was pretty much empty apart from the adventurous few.
We were very pleased we made the effort – the hiking was glorious and the colours of the lake here are something else. I hope my pictures do it justice.
Hike | Distance | Height Gain | Timing | |
Day 1 | Cerro Leon | 2km | 350m | 15:00 – 17:00 (2 hours) |
Day 2 | Valle Del Rio Lacteo | 24km | 368m | 09:00 – 17:00 (8 hours) |
Day 3 | Lago Volcán | 2km | 0m | 09:00 – 10:00 (1 hour) |
Day 4 | Peninsula Belgrano | 20km | 194m | 11:00 – 17:00 (6 hours) |
TOTALS | 49km | 912m | 17 hours |
Our first hike was short, but all up, to the Mirador Cerro Leon from where we would be able to view the lake. We met a ranger on his way down and he advised us not to go all the way to the summit due to severe wind gusts. We took his advice, but still enjoyed the view from where we stopped.
The next day we hiked 24km on a fairly level path up the valley Rio Lacteo and had lunch at a refugio. These huts are so appealing and are free to use (reservation required). They come with several bunks and a wood burning stove to keep warm and heat your food. This particular hut was named after Doug Tompkins, the American entrepreneur, who, along with his wife, bought up vast tracts of Argentinean and Chilean land (2 million acres) from private land owners and donated it back to the Governments to form national parks. We later visited his grave in Chile.
The following morning we did a very short hike to Lago Volcán, but the wind was so ferocious we retreated to the truck for remainder of the day.
Our final hike in this park was a circular walk on the Belgrano Peninsula. The lake that surrounds the peninsula is one body of water, but has two colours: grey from the glacier melt and azure from snow melt. Walking around the peninsular gave us spectacular views of the changing colours.
Wow! Yet more spectacular scenery, you were right about the colour of the water, beautiful.
You two must be so fit!!
Can’t wait for the next instalment.
Take care.
Nice blog! Are you catching the wind now? We are still in El Chalten waiting to do the Huemal circuit and we’re getting gusts in the 50’s. Looking forward to PR after that.
You will love it!
Alone alone, all all alone
Alone atop the Argentine heights
Heights at remotest Perito Moreno
Heights amidst blustery winds
Winds fearsome and strong
Winds blowing off gates from hinges
Winds braved by the adventurous duo
Feasting on the sights of the lakes waters
Waters – almost enchanting –
In this remotest Perito Moreno!!!
Like!
Spectacular scenery and two very adventurous fit people
Spectacular scenery and two very adventurous fit people
Another excellent report. Nobody to be seen for miles
Another exciting read and spectacular scenery. After the tennis in Melbourne, Alison and I went to Tasmania on a walking holiday. It was also a spectacular country, blue skies, sunshine but the cold wind would have cut you in two!!!!!!! However we were well equipped with the thermal underwear and that was the summer in Tasmania. I think we were lucky with the weather as it rained every day the week before!!! Looking forward to your next blog!! Drive safely!
We loved Tasmania Jean, its where we went for a test trip to see if this was the life for us. We hired a very small camper and toured the island. xx