68 Bridges and One Ferry

The Estrada Park Pantanal is a 118km dirt road in the southern Pantanal that serves the farms located there.  Fortunately for us there is also great wildlife in the area, predominantly birds, but with a few capybaras thrown in along with the odd jaguar. Oh, and not forgetting the piranha and caiman in the river.

We set out early at the southern end at Passo do Lontra and drove north towards Corumba, counting the wooden bridges and one ferry as we went.  Francine was gripping her seat and whimpering on bridge number one, but by bridge 68 she was busy looking out for birds and seemed to not hear the planks creaking.

We reached the end after a full day’s driving and overnighted in a truck stop at Corumba.  We explored Corumba the next day and decided there was nothing worth seeing.  [Francine:  Oh that’s a bit mean! – The Corumba tourist board would have something to say about that – had we been able to find them!]  And it was decision time: put Big Bertha on a cattle pontoon and cruise up the river and deep into the Pantanal to Porto Jofre (and drive out north over some very rickety bridges) or stay in the south Pantanal.  After a lot of debate it was decided we’d stay in the south and make a return trip down the Estrada Park Pantanal.  

On the return trip we stopped to help an old couple change a wheel and in return they insisted we overnight at their farm.  They were a lovely couple, but we could only communicate with ‘sign language’.  On arrival, their family was in the middle of slaughtering a cow, which was an eye opener.

The next morning we set out at sunrise to catch the birds and returned to the southern end of the road.   The next day we took a boat tour with Tony, a local guide, deeper into the southern Panatanal looking for jaguars.  The early start at 05:30 paid off and we were lucky enough to see two of these magnificent creatures.

The next day we drive east to explore ‘anteater road’ – a track heading north along the east side of the Pantanal. The first 30km of the road is all roadworks, but after that we saw more wildlife (and more bridges).

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