After our little foray into Chile to visit the volcanoes, we crossed back into Argentina at the minor border post at Icalma. So minor that the Chilean officials said we were not allowed to pass in a ‘camion’ (truck). After some remonstrating, because the nearest alternative was some distance, they relented and we were allowed to pass. To celebrate our […]
We stopped for a roadside pee and afterwards Big Bertha refused to start. Our toilet break lasted six days!! There were signs of our impending problem that morning – when we were a looong way from civilisation and had parked a few kilometres off the road! Big Bertha really didn’t want to get going and grumbled when we tried to […]
Driving north from Caviahue to Chos Malal we felt we were very much in Argentine Gaucho country. Around every bend, we came across another herd of sheep / goats / cows / horses being shepherded along the road, presumably to market or a more tasty field. These weren’t short drives either. The Gauchos were accompanied by pack horses and, having […]
On our way north, generally following the Ruta 40 in Argentina, we decided to make a quick foray into Chile to visit some volcanoes, particularly the active Volcán Villarrica near Pucón. Leaving Junín de los Andes, the clouds started closing in as we headed towards Parque Nacional Lanin, and although we had been told there would be spectacular views of […]
After our horse riding adventure, we headed into Barilioche to meet Charlene, a Taiwanese friend we had met in BA whilst Scottish Country Dancing. Bariloche is a delightful town – imagine a Swiss town nestled next to a vast lake with mountains all around. You get the idea. The only unfortunate thing is that it has a reputation for break-ins […]
This is what Juan Carlos and Andrea called us after having rescued them from a sticky situation! We were on our way up to the thermal spa town of Copahue, at the base of Copahue Volcano, and had just passed 2000m altitude when we came across Juan Carlos and Andrea. They had accidently driven off the road and their car […]
Heading north from the Parque Nacional Los Alerces, we visited the lakeside town of Lago Puelo. Here we hiked up to a mirador in the NP overlooking the town, lake and mountains. The next day was Gaucho day. As complete novices, we booked what we thought was a brief and gentle two hour horse ride adjacent to the lake. However, […]
Dave is a sucker for a day out on a steam train and the La Trochita is no exception! Having crossed the border into Argentina from Chile, and having checked the weather forecast, we made a beeline for the regional town of Esquel via Trevelin, an attractive town with Welsh roots. This narrow gauge (75cm) railway, opened in 1935, used […]
Having reached the end of the Carretera Austral, we decided to next explore the islands of Chiloé and Quinchao before heading east and back into Argentina. The islands were very pleasant (known for their UNESCO listed churches), but the highlight for us was the annual festival in the town of Castro on Chiloé. Lasting five days, the festival is definitely […]
The northern stretch of the Carretera Austral continues to be very scenic with green forests, rivers, lakes and snow-capped mountains. One has to be careful not to become blasé about it all! From where we left you in Part 1 (Queulat National Park) we headed north towards the finish of the Carretera at Puerte Montt. We visited Villa Santa Lucia […]