The Promised Land

The Promised Land

We had great expectations of South Africa.  Whenever we talked about buying bits or getting things done for Bertha (or for us!), we always said “we can do that in South Africa …”, but perhaps what we had failed to appreciate fully were the other reasons for visiting – beautiful scenery, amazing wildlife, friendly people and a rich, if turbulent, history.

After a super-easy border crossing from Botswana, we headed via the Limpopo to Mapungubwe National Park.  It’s always good to listen to local knowledge and we were lucky to meet Henk, Bianca and their family on our first night in South Africa.  Henk recommended that we stay at Mopane Camp in the Mapesu private game reserve and take a tour into the Park, rather than stay at the Park campsite, which was a long (40km) drive from the main road.  An excellent tip – as Mopane Camp is unfenced and animals roam freely.  Dave found this out to his cost on waking up the first morning to find that hyenas had successfully hunted and killed his Crocs (foolishly left outside) during the night!   

Mapungubwe NP is not known for its animals, but rather for its scenery and history.  Containing some of the world’s oldest rock, it is also the point where Botswana, Zimbabwe and South Africa meet, at the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers.  An ancient civilisation (pre-dating Great Zimbabwe) flourished in the area, with archaeologists uncovering evidence of trading with China, India and the Middle East, as well as across Africa.  This was a prosperous Kingdom, where royalty were buried with golden artefacts – bangles, a sceptre, a headrest and a wooden rhino covered with thin gold leaf. 

In spite of the fact that it’s not known for its animals, we were almost immediately surrounded by 30-40 elephants, shortly after we entered for our game drive!  We stopped to watch and let them pass, but as they were in no hurry to cross the road, we eventually had to advance slowly past them.  As we drove through a rocky area, we spotted a pair of Klipspringer, the male watching from a high rock and the female very near to our vehicle.  At only 50-60cm high, they are among the smallest antelopes and incredibly cute!  Fortunately, they freeze in the face of danger, so we could get a good photo of the doe – but one move towards her and she would have vanished into the rocks as soon as we could say “cheese”.

Very pleased with our game drive, we returned to the camp in the dark, shining the spotlight in case we saw anything else – which we did!  As we approached Big Bertha, Dave picked out a pair of green eyes.  Whatever it was, it was lying in the bush, just behind Bertha!  And then it got up and walked into the bush.  Our guide was sure it was a cheetah that sometimes visited the camp (now they tell us!) and quickly got out of the vehicle to track her on foot, followed by us at a distance.   Fortunately, she was heavily pregnant, so probably not moving as quickly as she normally would and we caught up with her at the waterhole near the camp, where she had stopped for a drink.  She seemed quite unconcerned by our proximity (20m) and, after a few minutes rest, got up to continue her nightly prowl.  We were so lucky to see her up close!

Our next stop on the way to Kruger National Park was to be at Tshipise.  We had been told there was an amazing campsite there, with a natural spa and full facilities, so it seemed like a good place to stop.  But arriving at the resort, we were to encounter a new phenomenon for the first time – the Camp City!  South Africans love camping and many retirees save on electricity, water and fuel bills by packing their stuff into a mobile home or trailer and relocating to a comfortable campsite for a few months!  There were hundreds of spots at this campsite and it was almost full!  Not what we’re used to at all and we were fortunate to find a beautiful place nearby, which had only a few campers and a pool supplied from that same natural spa (which was a bit like being in a bath that was just a tad too hot!).

Next, it was off to the Kruger National Park to see the animals!  We entered at the most northerly  gate and travelled slowly south seeing various critters en route.  With numbers in excess of 20,000, it’s hard NOT to see elephants and we recommend anyone who stays at Letaba camp to visit the wonderful tusker museum there.  Not only do they have the huge tusks of some deceased tuskers, they also have more facts about elephants than anyone really needs to know.  For example, were you aware that, just as humans can be right or left-handed, elephants can be right or left-tusked?  Francine has mixed feelings about elephants – she likes to see them, but not touching the wing mirrors.  For protection, Francine makes a point of locking her door if an elephant gets too near – just in case it’s working with a monkey accomplice.  David, on the other hand, will be trying to get the elephant to hold his phone, so he can get a selfie with it.  We were thrilled to see one of the modern day tuskers (there are still a few around) quietly munching water lettuce in the river near the camp.  (The water lettuce was also being used as camouflage by two hippos crossing the river.)

We had to submit our visa extension applications in Johannesburg and as this had to be done within thirty days of arrival in the country, we had a time constraint.  It was at this point that we decided not to rush through Kruger, but to exit half way down (it’s a big park!) and return to do the southern part later.  As a result of a chance meeting with a local at a café in a town with two roads, we set off via the mango farm to Blyde River Dam.  We were impressed by the huge number of mango trees at different stages of growth.  But, unfortunately, the farm didn’t offer a tour and, as it wasn’t mango season, we had to be satisfied with buying some dried fruit instead. 

The Blyde River Dam is situated at the lower end of the Blyde River Canyon and its primary purpose is to serve the mining and industrial area, but the boat tour offered a great opportunity to see some of the canyon from a different perspective.  Of particular interest was the Kadishi tufa “living” waterfall.  Unlike other waterfalls, the flow of a tufa waterfall changes over time.  (The water absorbs calcium from the dolomite rock and deposits it on rock formations, thereby blocking its own path and forcing it to find a new one.)  The tufa cliff has an uncanny resemblance to a human skull and, until a few years ago, the water had flowed from one of its “eye sockets”, giving it the name “the weeping face of nature”.  However, the water now flows down the side and some of the impact is lost.

After the Dam, we started on the wonderful “Panorama Route” – a scenic drive through planted forests, mountain passes and historic towns.  But amongst the jaw-dropping natural beauty, there is the oddity of the Big Shoe.  Who knows how many Big Shoes we will be able to visit in this lifetime, so we had to stop.  In 1990, inspired by the children’s nursery rhyme, a local artist built … a big shoe.  He also built some furniture to go in the shoe and a “grave” for the old woman, who presumably passed away from the stress of having so many children (none of whom were to be seen).  Inside the shoe is the artist’s gallery of sculptures with mostly religious themes.  Never has a man run with the big shoe idea so thoroughly!  There is a big shoe guesthouse, a big shoe tea room (serving big shoe burgers), and every type of big shoe memento that you could think of. 

After the excitement of over-sized footwear, we continued along the more conventional tourist route down the Blyde River Canyon – the Three Rondavels, Bourke’s Luck Potholes (interesting craggy rock “pools” formed by erosion) and God’s Window (with spectacular views of the Drakensberg escarpment).

After a quick stop in Graskop for one of “Harrie’s” pancakes (worth a stop) and to experience the overpriced “Graskop Lift” (which can’t make up its mind whether it’s an adventure park or a nature trail – definitely not worth a stop) we arrived in Pilgrim’s Rest.  Gold had already been located in the region, but it was Alex Patterson, who in 1873 panned Peach Tree Creek and discovered a significant quantity of alluvial gold.  A new gold rush began and Peach Tree Creek became Pilgrim’s Creek which became Pilgrim’s Rest.  Though touristy, the town has retained many of its original buildings and we absorbed the ambiance with a drink at the Royal Hotel.

Continuing on our way to the City, we stopped for lunch in Dullstroom, a pretty town where every other business seemed to be a craft brewery, craft shop or craft milkshake café.  Fortunately, “The Perfect Pair” shoe shop, provided just that and Dave’s feet are no longer Croc-less. 

Finally we arrived in Johannesburg (well, the suburbs anyway) and drove to the campsite.  Imagine our surprise to see our overlanding friends, Thierry and Christine, were there too.  Unfortunately, we didn’t have much time to chat, as they were flying back to Europe the same day.  But we’re sure that we’ll see them again when they return to South Africa.

Apart from our visa extension applications, we also visited the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg.  It’s an extremely interesting place, but with an incredibly frustrating design (you need to keep retracing your steps or you miss bits).  It’s hard to imagine that apartheid existed in such recent history.  On that reflective note, it was time to take Bertha for a well-deserved service.  Over to David…