The Laguna Route
The Laguna Route – an overlander’s right of passage. This 302km off-road adventure starts at the Bolivian Border, Paso Fronterizo Hito Cajón and goes all the way to Uyuni, although there are patches of tarmac towards the end. It’s not for the faint hearted. The entire route is above 4000m, is very cold at this time of year, and is very remote (but our Starlink is a game changer – we have constant internet).
A Spanish/Canadian family had reached out over social media asking if anyone would like to join them on the route. The timing worked and we joined Javier, Dana, Lucas, Clara and their camper for this adventure.
After final preparations in San Pedro de Atacama (fuel, water, provisions) we set out for the Bolivian border. Our border crossing went well, but our travel partners had some difficulties and crossed the next day after some negotiations with customs.
Immediately after the border lies Laguna Blanca where we camped to wait for our partners. We spent the day on admin and let our bodies acclimatise to the altitude. The lake attracts numerous birds, including flamingos, and also vicuna.
The following day we met up with Javier & co at the next laguna, Laguna Chalviri. Here we bared the icy cold air and relaxed in the hot thermal springs. Dave got up before dawn the next morning was first in. As the sunrise gradually lit up the surrounding area, he was surprised to find a flock of flamingos in very close proximity. Later the tours arrived and it got quite crowded.
On our way to Laguna Colorada, we made a short deviation to the Sol de Mañana. Typical geysers, there was a distinct smell of sulphur, bubbling mud and all sorts of colours.
Laguna Colorada was a treat. The lake is home to many birds but principally flamingos. Visitors are able to walk along the lake shore and watch the hundreds of flamingos feeding on the reddish algae in the lake. 3 of the world’s 6 species of flamingo are found in this area, with predominantly James’s Flamingos on this laguna. Woolly llamas also like to feed near to the lake. We camped overnight and had the place to ourselves the next morning. Very special. Just after we left, we came across some Bolivians fixing their 1975 Ford truck, We stayed until they got it going.
Next on the agenda was the Árbol de Piedra (the stone tree). Here we bumped into some German/Swiss overlanders who had broken down and Javier was able to donate some brake fluid from his camper to get them mobile again (our truck is all air actuated).
We read of a place where we could find Southern Viscacha, a rodent that is sort of cross between a rabbit and a squirrel. We thought they would be difficult to spot, but no, they were everywhere! Very cute and not at all shy!
Looking for a camp spot for the night, we found ourselves in a rather narrow canyon. Finally, the canyon opened up and we camped for the night nearby. After dark, in the middle of nowhere, we had a knock on the door. A tour company vehicle had broken down and could we please tow it to the top of the hill, from where another tour vehicle could tow it the five hours to Uyuni for repair? Big Bertha to the rescue again and made short work of pulling the Landcruiser out of the canyon.
From here we passed a number of other beautiful lagoons before joining the ‘main’ road to Uyuni. Our first port of call was the petrol station. Bolivia has a fuel crisis. And this was very evident in Uyuni – with a very long lines of cars and trucks queuing for hours to get fuel. As foreigners, we are allowed to cut to the front of the queue. And for this privilege, we pay three times the price of what the locals pay. Still it was a tense situation and the police had to intervene on our behalf.
We camped downtown outside the army barracks and had a 24 hour armed guard (very reassuring). Provisions were purchased from the local market (Francine was very excited to see fresh mango and pawpaw again) and the next day we set out for the world famous Salar de Uyuni salt flats.
Loved the flamingos. Glad you could help others
Its always nice to help others after all the help we have received Carole.
The Laguna Route in and along the chilly Bolivian heights on just passable roads [the driver – dare we say drivers! – already certified highly competent] from laguna to laguna! and their flamingos! and hitherto unknown creatures [who before now had heard of the Southern Viscacha?] past the stone tree [reminiscent of Fanghorn forest] and finally onto Uyuni but not before some Good Samaritan deeds and scrambles for fuel police interventions followed by 24 hour armed guard – what an experience! – surely the greatest understatement of the year!!!
I wish I had your ways with words Felix!!
Fascinating, never a dull moment! What will happen next?
Thank you Betty
Fascinating, never a dull moment! What will happen next?
The salt flats!
I’m so loving these insights into the lesser known parts of our world! Thank you for sharing these snapshots into an adventure I wouldn’t have the courage to join- but am so appreciative of the glimpses you are giving us!
Thank you Una – I’m glad you are enjoying our blog.
Brilliant wild life, I’ve never even heard of those lovely rodents!
Remarkable photography, may I say!
So nice to keep meeting these like minded people, and getting to help the locals.
Where next?
Hello Pauline and John, next is the Slat Pan.
They explored discovered shared enlightened and delighted – all of them greats – Marco Polo, David Livingston, Stephen Hawking, David Attenborough, Hubble and James Webb. In this distinguished company are our very own, Francine and Dave – consider their Bolivian exploits leading the Sage to remark their greatness is measured by the company in which they reside.
After admiring your dashcam videos for so long, and their never-repeating and eclectic soundtrack, I have to ask… how do you choose the music that you’re listening to on the road? Is there always music in the cab?
Hi Reinhard – we were given a hard disk full of music, and we just put it on random play… And I always make sure the music is non when I put the dashcam on (as in save current footage).
Hi There how exciting is this part and of course every other part of your journey. Really envious of your early morning swim
And close ups of the Flamingo. I think we saw that funny little rodent at The Cape in South Africa! So many years ago now😀. Loving all your blogs and glad you are my friends👌
It really was an experience, Jean. But I could not persuade Francine to join me in the thermal pool. The rodent is unique to South America. You saw Dassies in South Africa – no tail.
Yes that’s correct no tail!!!! Your adventures are wonderful always making me wish for the next one to enjoy😀😀