Shush! Don’t mention his name!
Medellín – just the name conjures up thoughts of cocaine, gangs and violence. But thankfully, the city no longer lives up to this reputation. Although it still has its problems, it is blossoming into a peaceful and touristic destination. We left Big Bertha at a campsite high above Medellín and stayed in a hotel downtown for two nights in the El Poblado district – a happening area with plenty of bars and restaurants in tree lined avenues. Our first visit was to the Plaza Botero and the adjacent Museum of Antioquia which shows a substantial number of Botero’s works. We were familiar with his voluminous statues, but hadn’t realised the extent of his drawings and paintings.
We then ambled back to our hotel exploring Medellín before the late afternoon rain came down.
The next day we booked onto a walking tour of the infamous Comuna 13, one of the centres of extreme violence back in the 80s and 90s. Today it is very much a tourist hot spot and all that comes with that. The area has been transformed by the arrival of good transport links (metro and cable car) and the people have used hip-hop and graffiti to redefine their lives. Our guide asked us not to talk or ask about Pablo Escobar whilst we travelled on the public transport. He is (was) a divisive figure – a rock star / Robin Hood in some people’s eyes and a violent mobster in others.
The next day we followed a walk (suggested by the internet) around the more historic centre of Medellín. Of course Dave managed to find a steam train!
As well as the Medellín drug cartel, paramilitary groups and guerrilla groups were active in the 80s and 90s and Medellín was at that time reportedly the most dangerous city in the world. But thankfully all that has changed. However there are poignant reminders. In Parque San Antonio are the remains of a Botero sculpture “El Pajero” (“The Bird”) that was blown up by guerrillas in June 1995 during a concert. Thirty people died and more than two hundred were injured. Botero decided to leave the destroyed artwork (which now has a plaque commemorating the dead) as it was, but donated a new one identical to the original. Together they are referred to as “The Birds of Peace”.
On 6 November 1985 guerrillas stormed the Palace of Justice of Colombia, taking over three hundred people hostage. Ninety-eight people died during the assault on the Palace. Those killed consisted of hostages, soldiers, and guerrillas, The building has been demolished, but there is a memorial.
What a lovely place, who would know what an awful history it had?
Very sad, so many pointless lives destroyed.
I liked the Casey Jones train too!
Where next?