Life is the Pits
Before leaving Uyuni, Dave visited the ‘train cemetery’ in Uyuni – a graveyard of tens of steam locos imported from the UK. Great fun!
From Uyuni, we drove to Potosí, once the largest city in the world thanks to a silver mining boom. It is now a city of steep hills (being located on the foothills of the mountains being mined), narrow roads and chaotic traffic. We parked near the centre in the stadium parking. There was some drumming and noise in the early evening and we realised that local team, Nacional Potosí were playing. Dave went along to watch and thoroughly enjoyed it. We anticipated a noisy night after the 1-1 draw, but everyone went home quietly and it was very peaceful. We spent the day exploring the city centre. It is very vibrant, with colonial buildings, abundant churches and people everywhere.
The next day David booked a mine tour. He was expecting a rather tame visit to some old workings. Oh no! He was picked up from the city centre, taken to changing rooms where he was given overalls, boots, helmet and torch and, after a brief tour of the miner’s market to buy gifts for the miners (dynamite freely on sale!) and a wagon repair shop, he was taken to a WORKING mine. In he went with the guide and every time a wagon passed, he and his guide had to squeeze against the tunnel wall to let it pass. He went up ladders, over gaping shafts and felt the dynamite explode in other galleries (now you understand why Francine didn’t fancy it!). It was a real experience. Sadly, not so interesting for the miners. They start at a young age, 18 or less, and generally don’t survive into old age due to lung issues or accidents (the guide said 80 people had died this year due to accident). The mine Dave visited is run as a cooperative, but the miners must buy their own protective clothing, there is no limit to the hours they work and no healthcare is provided, in the event that they fall sick. It’s a very hard life for them.
The belief is that “El Tío” (“The Uncle”), a devil-like spirit is in charge of the Underworld and therefore the mines, holding the lives of the miners in his hands. Consequently, shrines are built in his honour and gifts (cigarettes, coca leaves, high-proof alcohol) offered to appease him.
With the visit to the mines you have time travelled us to an era the British Nineteenth Century Social History Professor would find all too familiar. But this is today when your impactful travels broaden our understanding with vivid visual displays of the realities/existences of worlds we might otherwise never have imagined.
Oh No! I couldn’t do that, so frightening, Dave was very brave!
What a shame to see those lovely trains, just rotting away, Casey Jones trains.
Where next?