Bertha Makes a Pass

Bertha Makes a Pass

We emerged from a minor road skirting the Anti Atlas mountains at the town of Agouim, with two choices of how to get to Skoura.  We could turn right (road to Ouarzazate and Skoura – 110km) or turn left (road to Touama, crossing the High Atlas range, then to Demnate and back across the mountains to Skoura – 400km).  We turned left.  Although this would add some time and km to our trip, it would give us a chance to experience the High Atlas at close quarters (having only seen them in the distance up to that point) and also to drive the infamous Tizi n’Tichka pass.  The weather was fine in Agouim and we settled in for a scenic drive, with some live music (courtesy of two local hitchhikers, who had been to a festival and were making their way home to Tangiers!).  But the higher we got, the cloudier it became, so that by the time we reached the Col du Tichka (at 2,260m), the rain was falling thick and fast.  We left our bedraggled hitchhikers a little further on in Taddart, where we hoped they would pick up a lift to Marrakech (honestly, we had warned them that we weren’t going very far before they got it!) and decided to pull off the road for the night as the weather closed in.  The next morning, we awoke to the sight of snow steadily falling – and staying!  After a quick review of our plans (we had only covered about a sixth of our intended route!), we decided that we had probably seen enough of the High Atlas at close quarters(!) and we would head back the way we had come.  The Tizi n’Tichka pass has earned a reputation as a dangerous road.  It is located on the main route from Marrakech to the southern oases with a fair amount of heavy traffic, numerous switchbacks and steep drops.  Add to this continual road repairs, speedy local drivers and unpredictable weather and the reputation seems well deserved.  We set off with some trepidation, as the snow fell more densely and I was quite relieved to see a snow plough ahead, leading a small convoy of vehicles, which Bertha could follow.  Needless to say, after a short respite behind the plough, Dave pulled off the main road to take photos (of a blizzard?!) and we lost our protected spot (and the convoy)!  We finally reached the Col du Tichka, in such strong winds that you could hardly open the door, and began our descent to Agouim.  But weather in the High Atlas is unpredictable.  The snow stopped, the clouds cleared and, by the time we reached Agouim, the sun was shining, as if it had never been gone!

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Francine