There we were, driving merrily along a ‘ripio’ dirt track from the Salinas Grandes salt pan to San Antonio de los Cobres, in the middle of nowhere, when there was an almighty noise from underneath Big Bertha. We stopped quickly, expecting a puncture. But no, it was something much worse, the front propshaft, along with the transfer case output shaft, […]
Returning from the UK at the end of May we spent the first few weeks at MAN in Santiago getting a few issues fixed for Big Bertha. Whist there, we were invited to an asado by Mauricio and Patricia whom we met at Puerto Tranquiol earlier in the year. We had a lovely meal with the family. Leaving our friends at […]
The Atacama Desert starts around 500km north of Santiago. Because of the low population, low light pollution, high mountain peaks and very low atmospheric moisture, it is an ideal location for optical telescopes. We were lucky enough to visit two – the Gemini telescope operated by Noirlab and El Silla operated by the European Southern Observatory. These were daytime technical […]
Our new Starlink has been a bit of a game changer for us – internet everywhere. Pricey, but worth it. However, setting it up and putting it away each time we want to use it is a bit of a pain. So Dave researched what other overlanders had done, ordered parts whilst in the UK and, whilst stranded at the […]
Where to start? Dave noticed that Big Bertha has been consuming coolant (antifreeze) in the last few months. Around a litre over 1000km. Not a lot, but concerning nonetheless. It could be for many reasons – being a modern engine, the coolant circulates everywhere: in the EGR cooler, block, cylinder head, compressor, and the high pressure and low pressure intercoolers. […]
We were very lucky to have been able to camp in the centre of Mendoza next to the train station. From here we explored the city using the comprehensive bus and tram network. After a couple of days we decided to start heading towards the Cristo Redentor pass over the central Andes and into Santiago. Dave being Dave decided to […]
After our little foray into Chile to visit the volcanoes, we crossed back into Argentina at the minor border post at Icalma. So minor that the Chilean officials said we were not allowed to pass in a ‘camion’ (truck). After some remonstrating, because the nearest alternative was some distance, they relented and we were allowed to pass. To celebrate our […]
We stopped for a roadside pee and afterwards Big Bertha refused to start. Our toilet break lasted six days!! There were signs of our impending problem that morning – when we were a looong way from civilisation and had parked a few kilometres off the road! Big Bertha really didn’t want to get going and grumbled when we tried to […]
Driving north from Caviahue to Chos Malal we felt we were very much in Argentine Gaucho country. Around every bend, we came across another herd of sheep / goats / cows / horses being shepherded along the road, presumably to market or a more tasty field. These weren’t short drives either. The Gauchos were accompanied by pack horses and, having […]
On our way north, generally following the Ruta 40 in Argentina, we decided to make a quick foray into Chile to visit some volcanoes, particularly the active Volcán Villarrica near Pucón. Leaving Junín de los Andes, the clouds started closing in as we headed towards Parque Nacional Lanin, and although we had been told there would be spectacular views of […]